Additional Cost and Options for New Home Purchase

[gasman]

When I'm looking for a new home, this is generally what I budget for:

Example: $1M home (because Irvine...)

$20-30K builder upgrades - mostly infrastructure/electrical/framing/plumbing/alarm/insulation options.
$100-150K post construction upgrades - kitchen cabinets, counters, backsplash/bathroom tiles/flooring/carpet/paint/fixtures/hardware/windows/etc.
$30-50K landscaping

$200K goes FAST.  Anyway, the point is, when buying a new home, add 20-30% to the sticker price to cover extras.  Unless you are ok with the standard construction, then just add 5% for infrastructure...I won't judge.

 

[Ready2Downsize]

We didn't rip out cabinets. We did pay to upgrade from Oak to Maple kitchen cabinets. The rest of the cabinets we put in our selves and yes, there is definitely a difference. I'm positive we would have paid more to put in our own cabinets (4150 sq foot house with five bathrooms, butlers pantry and kitchen) and our total outlay to the builder was $20K including stair rail upgrade and some electrical switches.

The cabinet maker made his work look like they were put in at the same time, but no veneer on his work.

After 17 years the kitchen cabinets have held up ok but I'm really happy I didn't pay the builder for any other cabinet work.

We did rip out counters, but at that time, White Dal tile was standard thru the whole house.

 

[Ready2Downsize]

Not 4 car wide.......... 2 wide and 2 behind which works great for us. We always park two cars in the garage.

I am going to have to move in my mom's house (she refuses to move and it's her last chance at avoiding a nursing home), so my quest for a new one story in Irvine has been put on hold. I'm really going to miss my garage (and my whole house and Irvine).

Now I'm looking at renting out my house if it works out staying at her house and redoing some things to make it a little more maintenance free (like the yard) and it's time for some redoing some things inside the house anyway.

 

[socal78]

Do you have a spreadsheet of TI members?

Truth: I actually know of one TI member who does.
And no, it isn't me.

 

[irvinehomeowner]

Now I'm looking at renting out my house if it works out staying at her house and redoing some things to make it a little more maintenance free (like the yard) and it's time for some redoing some things inside the house anyway.

Just sell it to me for $580k.

 

[Irvine Dream]

Now I'm looking at renting out my house if it works out staying at her house and redoing some things to make it a little more maintenance free (like the yard) and it's time for some redoing some things inside the house anyway.

Just sell it to me for $580k.

Nope but she will sell it to me for $1.35 million( $580K purchase+$200 K upgrade+$500 K tax free gain+ $70 K selling expense), please, please

 

[meccos12]

Im hoping someone can shed a light on why the cabinet finish upgrades are so expensive.  I saw a cabinet upgrade for 3k, but the same cabinet in a different finish and color is 13k.  Really?  10k difference just for the finish and color?  Am I missing something here?  I feel like I can easily hire someone to repaint and coat the cabinets for a fraction of that...

Cabinet "upgrades" are a scam.  The boxes are still crappy 1/2" particle, with laminate veneer facing.  The doors are all mass produced in standard sizes.  There's nothing special about the "upgraded" cabinets.  If you can afford it, I would rather rip out the standard white thermofoil cabinets and replace it with custom or higher quality modular cabinets.  This gives you the opportunity to customize the doors/drawers/pullouts/hardware/rails/hinges/etc.

However, it IS a slippery slope.  Once you do this, you are changing out countertops, sinks, faucets, and sometimes even appliances.  I've fallen victim to this more than once, but have NEVER regretted doing it.

The cabinets I saw were solid maple with a brown stain.  my problem is that the wife wants a different finish  (she wants white cabinets with some stain guard).  However if we want white cabinets its gonna cost 13k rather than 3k.  I dont see why we cant just paint this for a fraction of the cost...

 

[meccos12]

When I'm looking for a new home, this is generally what I budget for:

Example: $1M home (because Irvine...)

$20-30K builder upgrades - mostly infrastructure/electrical/framing/plumbing/alarm/insulation options.
$100-150K post construction upgrades - kitchen cabinets, counters, backsplash/bathroom tiles/flooring/carpet/paint/fixtures/hardware/windows/etc.
$30-50K landscaping

$200K goes FAST.  Anyway, the point is, when buying a new home, add 20-30% to the sticker price to cover extras.  Unless you are ok with the standard construction, then just add 5% for infrastructure...I won't judge.

I honesty think you are right on about upgrades.  I looked at new homes around the 1.3M range and went to design center to see what additional costs I would incur.  Based on estimates of what we saw and wanted (many of which I feel is necessary for a home in this price range), I calculated at least another 150K.  At a final price point of 1.45M, these homes look a LOT less attractive.

 

[irvinehomeowner]

#GoldToiletsOrGoHome

 

[gasman]

The cabinets I saw were solid maple with a brown stain.  my problem is that the wife wants a different finish  (she wants white cabinets with some stain guard).  However if we want white cabinets its gonna cost 13k rather than 3k.  I dont see why we cant just paint this for a fraction of the cost...

Yep, that's consistent with what I've seen.  The cabinet subcontractors will charge extra for painted cabinets because it has more steps involved.  Truth is, it's only 1-2 extra net steps compared to stain, as both have prep, varnish, etc.  It's just the lacquer they use for paint that requires a little extra care when applying to ensure a smooth finish (dust, etc.).  13K extra for the whole house isn't that bad an option, IF the boxes are solid maple (and not JUST the doors).  You have to be careful with how the options are worded, because many cabinet subs will give you a maple painted door, but the boxes will stay veneered ply, or have laminated surfaces to match the doors.

I've been able to negotiate alternatives through the design center...for example, standard kitchen cabinets (with the intent of ripping them out), and upgraded "rest of the house" cabinets (baths, linens, etc.).  They'll usually work with you to get that priced out from the sub.  Worth exploring if it's something you are looking for.

And yes, it will be cheaper to refinish the maple cabinets post-construction if you want the white cabinets.  I'll be VERY surprised if the boxes themselves were maple.  I'm pretty sure most of these cabinet subs use laminated/veneered ply.  Best way to tell is the color of the inside of the boxes...if they're white...dead giveaway.  If they have wood grain, then feel it to see if it's laminate or real wood.

Color me a cabinet snob.

 

[Zippohunter]

When I'm looking for a new home, this is generally what I budget for:

Example: $1M home (because Irvine...)

$20-30K builder upgrades - mostly infrastructure/electrical/framing/plumbing/alarm/insulation options.
$100-150K post construction upgrades - kitchen cabinets, counters, backsplash/bathroom tiles/flooring/carpet/paint/fixtures/hardware/windows/etc.
$30-50K landscaping

$200K goes FAST.  Anyway, the point is, when buying a new home, add 20-30% to the sticker price to cover extras.  Unless you are ok with the standard construction, then just add 5% for infrastructure...I won't judge.

I honesty think you are right on about upgrades.  I looked at new homes around the 1.3M range and went to design center to see what additional costs I would incur.  Based on estimates of what we saw and wanted (many of which I feel is necessary for a home in this price range), I calculated at least another 150K.  At a final price point of 1.45M, these homes look a LOT less attractive.

Yup consistent with my experience.  $1.65M price before upgrades...$2M after all said and done.  85K on interior upgrades through design center, 100K interior upgrades post escrow, and $165K on landscaping.  It adds up quick.  I thought I was gonna spend $250K after COE.

 

[meccos12]

When I'm looking for a new home, this is generally what I budget for:

Example: $1M home (because Irvine...)

$20-30K builder upgrades - mostly infrastructure/electrical/framing/plumbing/alarm/insulation options.
$100-150K post construction upgrades - kitchen cabinets, counters, backsplash/bathroom tiles/flooring/carpet/paint/fixtures/hardware/windows/etc.
$30-50K landscaping

$200K goes FAST.  Anyway, the point is, when buying a new home, add 20-30% to the sticker price to cover extras.  Unless you are ok with the standard construction, then just add 5% for infrastructure...I won't judge.

I honesty think you are right on about upgrades.  I looked at new homes around the 1.3M range and went to design center to see what additional costs I would incur.  Based on estimates of what we saw and wanted (many of which I feel is necessary for a home in this price range), I calculated at least another 150K.  At a final price point of 1.45M, these homes look a LOT less attractive.

Yup consistent with my experience.  $1.65M price before upgrades...$2M after all said and done.  85K on interior upgrades through design center, 100K interior upgrades post escrow, and $165K on landscaping.  It adds up quick.  I thought I was gonna spend $250K after COE.

What did you do through design center and what did you do post escrow if you dont mind me asking.  Also who was the builder?  Thanks

 

[Zippohunter]

When I'm looking for a new home, this is generally what I budget for:

Example: $1M home (because Irvine...)

$20-30K builder upgrades - mostly infrastructure/electrical/framing/plumbing/alarm/insulation options.
$100-150K post construction upgrades - kitchen cabinets, counters, backsplash/bathroom tiles/flooring/carpet/paint/fixtures/hardware/windows/etc.
$30-50K landscaping

$200K goes FAST.  Anyway, the point is, when buying a new home, add 20-30% to the sticker price to cover extras.  Unless you are ok with the standard construction, then just add 5% for infrastructure...I won't judge.

I honesty think you are right on about upgrades.  I looked at new homes around the 1.3M range and went to design center to see what additional costs I would incur.  Based on estimates of what we saw and wanted (many of which I feel is necessary for a home in this price range), I calculated at least another 150K.  At a final price point of 1.45M, these homes look a LOT less attractive.

Yup consistent with my experience.  $1.65M price before upgrades...$2M after all said and done.  85K on interior upgrades through design center, 100K interior upgrades post escrow, and $165K on landscaping.  It adds up quick.  I thought I was gonna spend $250K after COE.

What did you do through design center and what did you do post escrow if you dont mind me asking.  Also who was the builder?  Thanks

Design Center: whole house Cabinets, insulation, Counter Tops, great room entertainment built in, Kitchen back splash, canned lights everywhere, wiring, precast hood over stove top in kitchen, electronic air filter, etc, etc.
After COE: All flooring, moulding everywhere, window shutters, paint, refrigerator, Bonus room built ins, marble master shower, garage built ins, closet organizers, lighting fixtures, etc, etc.
Landscape:  We are doing a pool and jacuzzi.

 

[asdfg]

When you hear about people doing the flooring after close of escrow, does that mean they actually rip out the tile that the builder insists on putting down in the wet areas? Is it much of a hassle/extra expense to knock out the tiles? Was also thinking of knocking down the ugly granite full backsplash behind the stove that builder insists on placing. Wondering if that would be a smart thing to do or not. Would that do much damage to the drywall?

 

[gasman]

When you hear about people doing the flooring after close of escrow, does that mean they actually rip out the tile that the builder insists on putting down in the wet areas? Is it much of a hassle/extra expense to knock out the tiles? Was also thinking of knocking down the ugly granite full backsplash behind the stove that builder insists on placing. Wondering if that would be a smart thing to do or not. Would that do much damage to the drywall?

Yep, ripping out the standard builder tile/carpet/etc.  Demo cost relative to the cost of flooring is fairly small, almost negligible.  Removing the backsplash will likely require replacing the drywall, but that shouldn't cost too much either.

 

[viobruin]

Has anyone opted for the rain shower option through Irvine Pacific? I've always wanted one and am thinking about doing it through the builder since I believe they'd have to reroute the plumbing through the ceiling. If you have a rain shower through Irvine Pacific, I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments.

 

[Calisun]

Questions for TI members who have wood floor for upstairs , do you use interior insulation to reduce the sound of footsteps? Or the noise is ok without insulation between floors?

 

[lnc]

Questions for TI members who have wood floor for upstairs , do you use interior insulation to reduce the sound of footsteps? Or the noise is ok without insulation between floors?

For 2nd floor hardwood flooring, you'll need cork sheet, cork underlayment for sound insulation and noise reduction.

Hardwood flooring on 2nd floor is very unforgiving and it is banned in some condos due to noise issue.  Interior insulation will help a little but cork sheet will make the biggest improvement for sound insulation and vibration reduction. 

The cork sheet are not very expensive and come with different thickness.  Here's an example 1/4" thick one from HD. http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-200-sq-ft-1-4-in-Cork-Underlayment-Roll-72000Q/100645274

They are other types of underlayment available for sound insulation such as shredded rubber mat.  It has even higher sound reduction property but also more expensive.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TUI5CG/?tag=nhte-20

 

[Calisun]

Questions for TI members who have wood floor for upstairs , do you use interior insulation to reduce the sound of footsteps? Or the noise is ok without insulation between floors?

For 2nd floor hardwood flooring, you'll need cork sheet, cork underlayment for sound insulation and noise reduction.

Hardwood flooring on 2nd floor is very unforgiving and it is banned in some condos due to noise issue.  Interior insulation will help a little but cork sheet will make the biggest improvement for sound insulation and vibration reduction. 

The cork sheet are not very expensive and come with different thickness.  Here's an example 1/4" thick one from HD. http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-200-sq-ft-1-4-in-Cork-Underlayment-Roll-72000Q/100645274

They are other types of underlayment available for sound insulation such as shredded rubber mat.  It has even higher sound reduction property but also more expensive.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TUI5CG/?tag=nhte-20

If having builder to do hardwood flooring on 2nd floor, will they put similar underlayment?

 

[lnc]

If having builder to do hardwood flooring on 2nd floor, will they put similar underlayment?

I've no idea.

One thing I know for sure is that builder definitely install some darn good underlayment in their model homes.  Hardwood flooring at 2nd floor will never be as quite as the carpet but all the hardwood flooring in the upstairs of the model home are very close.  Next time you visit a model home with hardwood flooring at 2nd floor, stay at first floor and see if you can hear any noise, vibration, and footstep etc coming from above.