Where do you get your ramen?

The many varieties of ramen



Generally speaking, Japanese ramen (non-instant, restaurant style) can be classified by soup base, location/origin, and type of noodle. Rameniac has done an excellent job on a ramen styles write-up, scroll down on this page and check the 22 different ramen styles by origin:

<a href="http://www.rameniac.com/ramen_styles/">http://www.rameniac.com/ramen_styles/</a>



Since they didn't elaborate on the soup styles, I'll go over them briefly here:



Shoyu: Shoyu means soy sauce in Japanese. This type of soup base is usually clear and brownish, made from chicken and veggie with soy sauce added, typically served with straight or curly noodles.



<img src="http://d2.biggestmenu.com/00/00/86/bc5f5781fa6c9cb1_m.jpg" alt="" />



Miso: This is basically Sapporo style soup base, made with miso, chicken, or fish. The soup base is thick and oily, typically served with thick or curly type noodles.



<img src="http://eecue.com/img/images_pic-medium-25513-miso_ramen_with_extra_pork.jpg" alt="" />



A variation of the miso ramen is the <em>spicy miso</em>:

<img src="http://d0.biggestmenu.com/00/00/2e/3dd1858c8f297f63_m.jpg" alt="" />



Shio: Shio means salt, this soup base is made from salt, chicken, veggies, fish, seaweed, and sometimes pork bones. The soup is clear and yellowish, and never boiled. If you order this and the soup looks white-ish, you know the cook boiled the soup base.



<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1029/1384708362_948c79c251.jpg?v=0" alt="" />



Tonkotsu: This is a pork bone soup base, made by boiling the pork bones until the soup turns white-ish. Typically served with straight noodles, Hakata style.



<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/140/333974273_6a7469622e.jpg" alt="" />



Recently there have been other creations, such as this "curry ramen" with curry soup base:

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/23/91664436_968d289601.jpg?v=0" alt="" />



Sometimes the ramen restaurant does a "fusion" soup base, such as tonkatsu-shoyu.



LA Times ran an article on Santouka ramen a while back, worth reading:

http://xml.latimes.com/features/printedition/food/la-fo-rameniac2jan02,1,5623810.story?page=1
 
Lamian in Chinese cuisine today



There are many varieties of noodle in Chinese cuisine. I'll touch up on a few lamian styles briefly.



Generally speaking, there are 2 main styles of wheat Lamian (hand pulled noodles) in Northern China, Lanzhou and Shandong. Lanzhou lamian is usually made by Hui Muslims, and thus their food must be <em>Halal</em> (permissible). The soup base is usually beef or mutton, clear colored, with salt and some green onions. You won't find pork because it's <em>Haraam</em> (forbidden), and the soup will usually not contain soy sauce. The reason is because soy sauce typically contains 2% alcohol, and alcohol is forbidden to Muslims. Asian restaurants in Muslim countries have to use special Halal soy sauce.



Here's some pictures of chefs making Lamian by hand. The best tasting noodle is always the freshly made stuff, machine-made noodles at the supermarket just can't compare:

<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1417/624593823_159f8fae1d.jpg?v=0" alt="" />

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/55/138049783_1e92f03c36.jpg?v=0" alt="" />



You can also find many YT videos on lamian making:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7vjtZkwUzk&feature=related">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7vjtZkwUzk&feature=related</a>



Here's the finished product, notice the soup is clear-ish:

<img src="http://nanamoose.typepad.com/a_day_in_the_life_of_the_/images/2007/05/10/dsc04946.jpg" alt="" />



With hot chili sauce added:

<img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1185/628801429_511c34f3f4.jpg" alt="" />





The second type of "northern" lamian is Shandong, which is usually made by ethnic Chinese chef and not Hui Muslims. There's a stereotype that says Lanzhou lamian tends to be "round" while Shandong lamian is "flat", but the shape is really up to the chef making it, or the machine used. Shandong Lamian doesn't have to be Halal so the soup base could contain soy sauce. However, it's rare to find it served with pork chop. Here's an example of machine-made Shandong noodle, stir fried with soy sauce and other seasonings:

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2158/2303910665_a695e454bc.jpg?v=0" alt="" />





In addition to hand-pulled noodles, there's also a "knife-peeled" variation called Dao Shao Mian (daoxiaomian). Here's a video showing the "knife peel" process:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoU3uypJwXA">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoU3uypJwXA</a>





There are 2 popular regional versions, central Shanxi (San-shi) and Xi'an (Shi-an), though I'm not really sure what the difference is. @_@ Knife-peeled noodles tend to be flat and wide. Like Lanzhou Lamian, when made my Hui Muslims it's Halal and typically served with simple beef soup. But when served by Chinese chefs, they may add soy sauce and other spices:

<img src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_0ivKsgPCRXE/RrfXff81OLI/AAAAAAAACsw/AdKcOflEvY8/s400/0625-07.JPG" alt="" />





Over the years, Northern noodle making traditions spread south, and many Southern provinces have their own unique noodle dishes today. Here's a noodle chef in Shanghai making hand-pulled noodles:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTfC5tDlOqo&feature=related">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTfC5tDlOqo&feature=related</a>





Up until the 19th century, many Han-Chinese avoided the consumption of beef, because it was considered immoral to kill and eat an animal that labored for you on the farm. This cultural sentiment was exported to Japan, where consumption of beef was illegal until Meiji era. Thus, Han-Chinese preferred pork over beef, while non-Han Chinese like the Hui ate beef and mutton. Here's an example of knife-peeled noodle served in Taiwan, with pork sauce topping:

<img src="http://www.taipeitimes.com/images/2005/10/07/20051006182625.jpeg" alt="" />





However, with the coming of modern era, cows were replaced by tractors, and our beloved moo-moo's were eventually accepted as food by Han-Chinese. A very popular Chinese noodle dish today is the Szechuan Spicy Beef Noodle, with chili oil added to the soup base for that extra kick. You can find this dish in many Chinese restaurants today:

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/2602367778_357b375d5c.jpg?v=0" alt="" />



This style of noodle was brought from retreating KMT forces in 1950 to Taiwan. Over the years it had became extremely popular in Taiwan, and entire magazine issues have been published in Taipei dedicated to the best bowl of beef noodles. The noodle is usually served with some veggies, fresh or preserved, along with beef and beef tendons. It's possible to order with only beef or beef tendons only.



Taipei Beef Noodle Festival 2005:

<a href="http://www.tbnf.com.tw/en/main.htm">http://www.tbnf.com.tw/en/main.htm</a>



Various Taipei beef noodles:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/yusheng/sets/712553/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/yusheng/sets/712553/</a>



Taiwanese "pork chop noodle", with fried pork chop on top instead of beef. This is one of my favorite dishes, sometimes the fried pork chop is served on the side.

<img src="http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/cathyerway/IMG_1327.jpg" alt="" />





In 1988, a Chinese-American businessman from California opened a chain of beef noodle shops in China called "California Beef Noodle King USA":

<a href="http://www.cb-noodleking.com/">http://www.cb-noodleking.com/</a>



<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/142/348111549_d6af2fc09a.jpg?v=0" alt="" />



The owner looked to American fast food chains like KFC for inspiration. I ate at one of the chains in Beijing last year and it was pretty good value for the money, about $1.25 USD for a bowl of beef noodle. So, like "Taco Bell", you can say that America is now re-exporting ethnic foods back to China. ;)

<img src="http://www.cb-noodleking.com/images/jim.jpg" alt="" />



<img src="http://theoffutts.files.wordpress.com/2007/04/chickfilacow.jpg" alt="" />
 
Damn... I am hungry now. Jeezus... I have never met anyone with the noodle knowledge that momo has. This is awesome, and I wish my Asian friends had more useful knowledge like this and not the useless 80s TV shows facts. Well... at least I have something to impress grandma with, as long as they properly translate for this cracker.



Is it just me, or does this guy look like the <a href="http://www.ethicsworld.org/images/angelo_mozilo.jpg">Mozilo</a> of noodles?



http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/Ando_papa.JPG



EvaL, what does "Tan Man" translate into Japanese as?
 
[quote author="graphrix" date=1217342283]EvaL, what does "Tan Man" translate into Japanese as?</blockquote>


I have no idea. What I will say is that if Momo ever get laid off or wants to change careers, I think he has a calling as a food anthropologist. I also think his picture posts should come with a warning. :)
 
Tan dude = tan sareteru otoko?



It's interesting to note that Nissin Food's first chicken flavored instant noodle was spelled "chikin", and Chick-Fil-A's cows spell it "chikin" too. This is Nissin's chicken ramen today, with a piece of... dried egg?



<img src="http://www.ramenramenramen.net/wp-images/DSC01399.JPG" alt="" />

<img src="http://www.ramenramenramen.net/wp-images/DSC01410.JPG" alt="" />





There are entire blogs and web sites out there dedicated to noodles, my knowledge is only superficial compared to them.



Note to Tampopo fans -- new movie titled "Ramen Girl":

<a href="http://www.ramenramenramen.net/">http://www.ramenramenramen.net/</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GARRQfJt-bQ">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GARRQfJt-bQ</a>

<a href="http://www.media8ent.com/m8/movies.asp?movieID=33">http://www.media8ent.com/m8/movies.asp?movieID=33</a>
 
Momopi,



You must be in the food related business or have worked in food retail quite a bit. I found your recommendations helpful in restaurants because I do not cook at home much at all. Ramen unfortunately is bad for everyone's diet due to higher fat and sodium content. Have you check your cholesterol lately?
 
[quote author="bkshopr" date=1217402391]Momopi,



You must be in the food related business or have worked in food retail quite a bit. I found your recommendations helpful in restaurants because I do not cook at home much at all. Ramen unfortunately is bad for everyone's diet due to higher fat and sodium content. Have you check your cholesterol lately?</blockquote>


Actually yes, my lipids test result from May was:

Cholesterol: 176

Triglycerides: 113

HDL: 27 <--- need exercise

LDL: 126

HDL Ratio: 6.5



Interesting that Sand Canyon Clinic in Irvine had to send the blood samples to Northridge for analysis. I received a Nintendo Wii Fit for my birthday this year, partly in effort to raise my HDL level. I sit in a cubical all day and it's quite unhealthy.



My parents ran restaurants from 1982-2002, and my mother was a manager at Panda Express when she retired. I've only worked briefly in restaurants and cannot be considered an expert. I just like to eat and am picky about food. @_@



You can control what you eat better if you cook. My "bachelor chow" consists of:

1) Add water to large pot, add boned beef chunks (cut excess fat off), boil for 5-10 min, then pour out the liquid (discard)

2) Fill pot with water again and add 1 spoon of chicken stock (powder), bring pot to boil

3) Lower heat to simmer for 1 hour

4) Add (cut) potato, carrots, onion, garlic, cilantro, black pepper, and whatever else in fridge that looks good (i.e. tomato)

5) Simmer for 3-4 hours, then let it cool off

6) Put pot in fridge overnight

7) Next day, take pot out and scoop out the white fatty stuff on top

8) Bring pot to boil, then lower heat to simmer, add salt/pepper to taste

9) Cook noodles in different pot

10) Put noodle and beef soup + beef/veggies in bowl



And that's it. Fairly brainless and easy to clean. Takes less effort than grilling a burger patty. For burgers, I have to stand there and baste bulls eye BBQ sauce + A1 blended with cracked peppercorn sauce after each flip, and pay lots of attention so it doesn't get dry or over-cooked. Beef soup in comparison is a lot easier, you just throw everything into the pot and watch a movie.
 
Man Doo Rang Dumpling House has an interesting fusion "dumpling ramyun".



Man Doo Rang Dumpling House

5458 Beach Blvd

Buena Park, CA 90621

(714) 670-8989

<a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/man-doo-rang-dumpling-house-buena-park">http://www.yelp.com/biz/man-doo-rang-dumpling-house-buena-park</a>



<img src="http://static.px.yelp.com/bphoto/iBQ7H45LMzGXlibsFEP1yg/l" alt="" />

<img src="http://static.px.yelp.com/bphoto/gf5W9-w1C6zl2Rx0V4USqg/l" alt="" />
 
[quote author="momopi" date=1217425246]



5) Simmer for 3-4 hours ... you just throw everything into the pot and watch a movie.</blockquote>


momopi, I find a slowcooker (i.e. Crockpot) to be helpful. These days they have multiple heat settings so it can be as slow as 8 hours on low or 3-4 hours on high. Some have timer-settings so you can even get your hard root vegetables that require longer cooking than meat started while you are away at work, and conveniently, there is no pot to watch.
 
momo:



I saw this avatar today and thought of you



<img src="http://www.forumsextreme.com/imgs1/aFu_FulledByRamen.gif" alt="" />
 
Ajisen Ramen

2700 Alton Pkwy

Ste 145

Irvine, CA 92606

(949) 833-3288

<a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/ajisen-ramen-irvine-2">http://www.yelp.com/biz/ajisen-ramen-irvine-2</a>



<img src="http://static.px.yelp.com/bphoto/SRa3rmN9AgDbftbn5RtJzw/l" alt="" />

<img src="http://static.px.yelp.com/bphoto/3CJI6rH-VkQD4RPYpFUx5A/l" alt="" />

<img src="http://static.px.yelp.com/bphoto/6hZB6GJlLJZqYKq-x4XQkQ/l" alt="" />



This is the ramen shop that opened in the Diamond Jamboree center. My suggestion for first time visitor is to sit at the bar, where you can observe the cooks through the large glass windows (just like California Fish Grill). This is more of an assembly line operation where the cooks have timers. They serve Kumamoto style Ramen here, which is a thicker soup base than Hakata style. You can read more about it here:



<a href="http://ramenroad.blogspot.com/2006/07/kumamoto-ramen.html">http://ramenroad.blogspot.com/2006/07/kumamoto-ramen.html</a>



We ordered the Tender Pork Rib (Tontoro?) Ramen, Spicy Pork Ramen, and a Beef Enoki Roll for dinner tonight. Let me start off by saying that the noodles are $9-$10 per bowl and not cheap. Traditionally, ramen is an inexpensive food for poor students, and the price reflects an Irvine premium.



The tonkotsu soup is covered with a layer of oil, so you should probably order tea with your meal to balance out the fatty oil. Here's a good write-up from another web site on the subject:



<a href="http://ramenroad.blogspot.com/2006/05/ajisen-tokyo.html">http://ramenroad.blogspot.com/2006/05/ajisen-tokyo.html</a>

<em>"The Soup - was a mild flavored Kyushu style tonkotsu soup that is covered with a thin layer of brown oil which they call ajisen oil. The brown oil is infused with deep fried scallots, a spice often used in Taiwanese cuisine. The deep fried scallots have a strong aroma that hides the tonkotsu smell, which might disappoint some fans of tonkotsu ramen."</em>



The beef enoki roll was very heavily seasoned and bathed in sauce, plus mustard on the side for dipping. The original beef flavor is kinda lost here. I'm not overjoyed with this ramen, but found it acceptable in quality.
 
[quote author="gwailo168" date=1215847380]SSG in FV was pretty good but the best ramen I ever had was a Japanese hole in the wall off of Redondo (I think) in Gardena. It is 2 doors down from Marie Calendars.</blockquote>


This restaurant I am referring to in Gardena was sold to new owners. The owners of that restaurant ended up opening Mentatsu!

Mentatsu > Shin sen gumi
 
[quote author="momopi" date=1217425246][quote author="bkshopr" date=1217402391]Momopi,



You must be in the food related business or have worked in food retail quite a bit. I found your recommendations helpful in restaurants because I do not cook at home much at all. Ramen unfortunately is bad for everyone's diet due to higher fat and sodium content. Have you check your cholesterol lately?</blockquote>


Actually yes, my lipids test result from May was:

Cholesterol: 176

Triglycerides: 113

HDL: 27 <--- need exercise

LDL: 126

HDL Ratio: 6.5



Interesting that Sand Canyon Clinic in Irvine had to send the blood samples to Northridge for analysis. I received a Nintendo Wii Fit for my birthday this year, partly in effort to raise my HDL level. I sit in a cubical all day and it's quite unhealthy.



My parents ran restaurants from 1982-2002, and my mother was a manager at Panda Express when she retired. I've only worked briefly in restaurants and cannot be considered an expert. I just like to eat and am picky about food. @_@



You can control what you eat better if you cook. My "bachelor chow" consists of:

1) Add water to large pot, add boned beef chunks (cut excess fat off), boil for 5-10 min, then pour out the liquid (discard)

2) Fill pot with water again and add 1 spoon of chicken stock (powder), bring pot to boil

3) Lower heat to simmer for 1 hour

4) Add (cut) potato, carrots, onion, garlic, cilantro, black pepper, and whatever else in fridge that looks good (i.e. tomato)

5) Simmer for 3-4 hours, then let it cool off

6) Put pot in fridge overnight

7) Next day, take pot out and scoop out the white fatty stuff on top

8) Bring pot to boil, then lower heat to simmer, add salt/pepper to taste

9) Cook noodles in different pot

10) Put noodle and beef soup + beef/veggies in bowl



And that's it. Fairly brainless and easy to clean. Takes less effort than grilling a burger patty. For burgers, I have to stand there and baste bulls eye BBQ sauce + A1 blended with cracked peppercorn sauce after each flip, and pay lots of attention so it doesn't get dry or over-cooked. Beef soup in comparison is a lot easier, you just throw everything into the pot and watch a movie.</blockquote>


Why do you do step 1? When I make oxtail soup or similar kinds of soup I just start with step 2. Also I use canned chicken stock, do you think powder chicken stock is better for taste? (if so what kind).
 
[quote author="fumbling" date=1229909792]

Why do you do step 1? When I make oxtail soup or similar kinds of soup I just start with step 2. Also I use canned chicken stock, do you think powder chicken stock is better for taste? (if so what kind).</blockquote>


I tend to pre-boil beef (used in soup) in a pot of water with some ginger and rice wine to get rid of the blood, before transferring to the soup pot. Canned chicken stock will work just fine. I don't always have chicken stock cans laying around, so I use chicken bouillon powder from Lee kum Kee (HK):



<img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4Q5Ddjqd68A/SUnTDPxcG9I/AAAAAAAABxw/GMUdop2sR5k/s640/Seasoning2.jpg" alt="" />
 
[quote author="momopi" date=1215832076]



Not recommended:

Daikokuya in Costa Mesa (inside Marukai): If you're stuck here and need to get ramen, go across the street to where the Japanese bookstore is, look for a little Japanese fast food place next to Game Stop that also serves ramen. Don't dine at Daikokuya here, the one in Little Tokyo is better.



</blockquote>


I checked out the little Japanese fast food place recently. The ramen was indeed better than Daikokuya's. The place is called Sushi Teri, and the name of the Japanese bookstore is Kinokuniya.
 
http://www.j-higa.net/culture/7noodle/sobaeng.htm



?In Japan eating soba as the final item o?the New Year?s Eve supper is a wide spread custom. This dish is called toshikoshi (literally ?year-passing?) soba and it symbolizes,as the name indicates,the old year?s passing. We eat toshikoshi-soba with the family while listening to the ringing of joya-no-kane, the New Year?s Eve bells which are struck at the same time at every temple throughout the country.



?It is said that this tradition became popular among the common people in the middle of the Edo era. What is the orign of toshikoshi-soba? There are many versions of it. Here are some examples.



?Soba is narrow and long in shape,so it symbolizes a wish for long life.



* The oldest story, from the Kamakura period, is that in Hakata, Kyushu, a businessman from China distributed buckwheat dumpling to poor people on the last day of the year and the following year their fortune changed for the better. So eating soba on New Year?s Eve became a tradition.



* The most persuasive explanation is that in the Edo era, goldsmiths used to clean factory floors with soba dumplings to pick up any gold dust on the last day of the year. So merchants started to eat toshikoshi-soba to collect ?money?, as gold or kin in Chinese characters means ?money?. Eventually ordinary people ate soba wishing for good fortune in money.



In Japanese culture, soba noodles have always symbolized good fortune. On New Year?s Eve, we eat toshikoshi-soba, recalling incidents of the past year and looking forward to the coming year.







http://www.justhungry.com/2003/12/toshikoshi_soba.html



Toshikoshi Soba or Year-End Soba: A bowl of hot soba noodles to end the year

posted on 29 Dec 2008 by maki



<img src="http://www.justhungry.com/images/toshikoshi_soba.jpg" alt="" />



Revised and updated: This recipe for Toshikoshi Soba, or Year-End Soba, traditionally eaten in Japan on New Year's Eve, is one of the earliest recipes posted on Just Hungry. I've expanded the directions so that you can use various methods for making the soup. Originally posted December 30, 2003.



Even though Christmas has become big business in Japan in recent years, the real holiday at this time of year is New Year's Day. The end of the old year, called ???(????shiwasu), is a hectic time, as people are busily celebrating with friends and colleagues at ????(???????bounenkai), "forget the year" parties - besides wrapping up things at work and getting ready to go home for the holidays.



New Year's Eve itself (??????????oh-misoka), however, is celebrated rather quietly by many people. There isn't the big urge to go to a party, to send off the old year with champagne and fireworks and tooting horns. In a way Japanese people do things the opposite of how people in the West celebrate Christmas or Hannukah vs. New Year's Eve and New Year's Day: Christmas is an excuse to have a party (it also happens to be a big 'date' day, when couples stay for the night at a luxury hotel for a romantic party of two). New Year's Eve, New Year's Day and the few days afterwards are when you spend time with family at home. On New Year's Eve, you'll stay home and reflect on the old year, watch some year-ending entertainment programs on TV, and perhaps go to the local temple at midnight, while hearing the 108 rings of the bell to "ring away" the evils of the old year.



The traditional evening meal to have while waiting to greet the new year is a bowl of hot soba noodles, called ????? (???????toshikoshi soba), which roughly means "end the old year and enter the new year soba noodles". There is no one set recipe for this soba - they are probably as many varieties as there are households. At our house my mother simply prepared a straightforward bowl with hot soup, something on top such as a slice of kamaboko, a rather rubbery fishcake; perhaps some spinach or othe green leavy vegetable, a raw egg dropped on top just before serving. When a raw egg is used like this in a bowl of hot noodles, whether it's soba or udon, it's called ???(????tsukimi) - moon-watching.



Hot soba noodles can be enjoyed at any time of the year of course, but since I usually prefer cold soba, New Year's Eve is usually the only day I have this. It is quite good and comforting.



When I originally wrote this article 5 years ago, soba (buckwheat) noodles, were generally only available at Japanese grocery stores. How times have changed! Now you can buy them at many general supermarkets, health food stores and such. There are many different brands, at all price ranges. Look for one that has smooth, mostly unbroken (a few strands may break) noodles that are fairly thick. Avoid the very cheap brands; with soba you really do get what you pay for.

Recipe: Toshikoshi Soba: Year-End Soba Noodle Soup



Note that the toppings are not that important here. What is important is properly prepared noodles, and a good flavorful soup. I've given three methods for making the soup, ranging from best (using kaeshi) to ok (using storebought readymade sauce).



Per 1 large bowlful:



* About 60 g / 2 oz. dried soba noodles

* basic dashi stock

* Kaeshi, or soy sauce, mirin and sugar

* OR instead of the dashi and ingredients above, a bottle of tsuyu or mentsuyu (readymade noodle sauce), available at Japanese grocery stores

* Toppings such as kamaboko, spinach leaves, egg (optional)

* Green onions, finely chopped

* Nanami or shichimi tohgarashi- seven-ingredient red pepper spice (see notes)



Bring a large pot of water to boil. Put in the soba noodles and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook until the noodles are not quite al dente - it should be cooked through. (Dried soba noodles, unlike dried semolina pasta, is rather delicate so you don't want to cook it in a rolling boil.) As soon as it's done, drain the noodles, and plunge it a bowl of cold water. Change the water frequently as you rinse the noodles. The objective is to get rid of any sort of starchy service on the noodles. Once this is done, drain the noodles and set aside in a colander. (See the very detailed instructions on how to cook and rinse soba noodles here.)



Make the basic dashi stock, and use an extra handful of bonito flakes. (You can also use vegetarian dashi stock if you prefer.)



If you are using kaeshi, mix 1 part kaeshi to 5 parts dashi stock. Vary to your tastes (don't make it too weak or too strong, but remember that you'll be putting soba noodles in it, so make it just a bit stronger/saltier than you think is necessary).



If you are using soy sauce and mirin straight, first mix the soy sauce and mirin in a 2 to 1 ratio (e.g. 2 Tbs. soy sauce and 1 Ts. mirin). Add a little sugar (for 2 Tbs. soy sauce add 1/2 tsp. or so of sugar). Add dashi to taste, at about the same 1 (soy sauce + mirin + sugar) to 5 (dashi) ratio.



If you are using store-bought tsuyu or mentsuyu (noodle sauce) in a bottle (such as this one), add plain water to the until it tastes right to you. The ratio depends on the brand and type. Note that even ones that say they are 'straight' (as in, not concetrated) will need to be thinned out for hot noodle soup, since they are meant to be used 'straight' for cold noodle dipping sauce, which is a lot stronger.



Heat up the soup. Put in the rinsed soba noodles, and gently simmer until the noodles are heated through.



Put noodles into serving bowls. Add soup, and any toppings. If you're adding a raw egg (be sure you're only adding a 'safe' egg!), add it at the last moment.



Garnish with a little of the chopped green onion and/or shichimi tohgarashi on top. You could also add a dab of wasabi, a small sheet of nori seaweed, and so on.

Notes



????????????????shichimi tohgarashi or nanami tohgarashi) is a mixed ground spice, containing red pepper, dried citrus skin, sesame seeds, etc. It's a commonly used table spice. You could use ground up red papper flakes as a substitute, though it won't have the same complex flavor and aroma. It's quite inexpensive and lasts a long time, so look for it at a Japanese food store. (Or you can buy it from Amazon Groceries.) I consider it to be a very important ingredient in my Japanese pantry.



Soup made with dashi, soy sauce and mirin is used for most Japanese noodles. The saltiness or strength of the soup is controlled by the ratio of soy sauce to dashi - the more dashi, the thinner the soup.



See this kitsune udon recipe for a vegan topping alternative (simmered aburaage or tofu skin). Of course, you could just enjoy the noodles with no topping, just the green onion and shichimi tohgarashi.



Japanese people usually don't do much drinking on New Year's Eve, because it's considered to be a good thing to greet the New Year bright and early. (Drinking during the New Year's festivities is another matter.)
 
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