Builder Upgrades- what did you choose /how to get these done ?

gasman said:
2 - Do standard recessed lights with builder, then convert them to LED from Costco (Feit).

Agreed with gasman on all 3 suggestions with a caveat here based on my experience installing Costo Feit LEDs into builder supplied recessed fixtures with dimmers.  Highly recommend builder installed LEDs w/dimmer, or at a minimum, getting assurance that the pre-installed recessed light fixtures, wiring, and breakers, are LED w/dimmer compatible.

Reason?  My Irvine Pacific home was built in 2015, included recessed lighting with incandescent lights pre-installed w/dimmer.  I replaced with costco LEDs.  Constant nuisance tripping of the circuit breakers...  LEDs + dimmers do not play nice with the AFCI type circuit breakers in my house.  Builder had same issues with other houses in my neighborhood who installed LEDs.  Neither the builder service nor builder's electrical contractor could solve the issue to my knowledge.

I think (not an expert on this) it has something to do with LEDs running on the same circuit as other electronics via wall outlet + AFCI type circuit breakers.  Something about the electrical noise of the LEDs + electronics on the same circuit cause the AFCI breaker to trip.  I've tested for defective LEDs.  None.  Tried two different claimed LED compatible dimmers.  Problem persisted.  Heard of neighbors replacing AFCI breakers with new ones.  Problem persisted.  Only other recommendation I've received, unofficially of course because it goes against new building code, is to replace the AFCI breaker with a traditional GFCI breaker.  I chose to leave the AFCI breaker in.  I still have the LEDs, but have to not raise the dimmer about 80% in the great room (9 LEDs) when the TV/Stereo is on otherwise the circuit will trip.  Similar issue with LEDs in master bedroom if certain electronics are on and plugged into the wall outlets.

Any electricians out there who want to come help me are 110% invited to.

But anyway, do your homework if you're thinking about putting LEDs w/dimmers in post escrow.
 
OCVillager said:
Okay, so, what is the order of things to be done after closing? If we need to plan the contractors to work on the home, can someone share the order based on dependencies? Also, I can try to ask the workers to help in other things like installing curtain rods or hanging the large picture frames on walls etc. for extra payment if I plan properly...
Things to do:
flooring,
paint work
recessed lights upstairs,
water treatment (reverse osmosis and softener installation),
window treatments,
barn door,
closet organizers,
Landscaping

Window treatments can take a while to get appointment for exact sizing/manufactured + delivered/appointment for install.  I'd recommend scheduling early.  Once installed, it won't really hinder the other projects, but may mean more prep time for the painters.  [I'd probably paint before window treatments just to make the prep work for painting easier, but good painters will have no problem if window treatments are on the wall.] On second thought, paint last.

Flooring is going to make a mess inside if they're removing tile, but once they get going, shouldn't take more than a few days to complete.  If you plan to do flooring where there's a toilet or pedestal sink, flooring guys will likely refuse to put toilet back on b/c of liability.  Have the builder's plumber do that.  Yes they will charge you a lot.  Yes it will keep your warranty.  Don't mess around here.  Water damage is a nightmare.  Also keep in mind if you buy the flooring yourself, solid flooring is really heavy and large.  You'll need to arrange for delivery.  Also consider supplies like glue/thinset.  Remember finishings too like shoebase and/or baseboards (depending on how you handle the pre-installed baseboards).  Flooring guys will probably install the finishing, may not paint it though.  You need painters anyway, maybe have them do it.

Speaking of paint, it's really a matter of how easy you want to make the job for them and how you feel about having them come back to touch up nicks the other trades make while doing their job.  Do painting after flooring if you need trim painted.  Installed window treatments, closet organizers, and barn door will mean more prep work for painters (more edges to mask off, but not at all insurmountable).  If you paint early, plan to have them come back after all the other projects are done to touch up.  If you paint last, well, easy for you, more work for painters. Seems like painting last makes sense.  No need for a return trip.

Water treatment is nice (I also have RO + softener).  There's some lead time involved for consult, obtaining supplies, and installation appointment.  Keep an eye on the plumbers.  They tend to be a little sloppy (sorry to the plumbers out there who aren't sloppy).  Make sure exposed pipes are stable.  If they bust up your drywall during install of the softener, be super nice to the builder and see if they'll repair for you for free. 

No experience on barn door, but I'd recommend doing that after flooring in case they need to install a track or fixtures of some kind on the floor.

No experience on closet organizer (It's on my 'wants list'), but recommend doing that after flooring so flooring guys have room to finish flooring and trim. 

Landscaping doesn't really disturb the inside of the house projects, but get that started ASAP.  It can take a while.  Depending on how you feel about getting the HOA's approval for things (i.e. if you follow the rules), you need the landscaper to submit plans for approval, which means landscaper needs to create plans.  The first round of HOA review will take a few weeks.  The HOA architectural committee needs to justify their existence, so they'll probably have at least one comment for you to address.  You'll address it, and they'll tell you they're super busy and will reply in 2 weeks.  And finally you'll be allowed to start landscaping.  You're going to have people coming into your yard first thing in the am.  They may have to demo the concrete "patio" the builder installs.  They use heavy machinery to dig and it's noisy.

Recessed lights should be easy, but do that before painting in case they need to cut out drywall to run wires, which means someone will need to patch the drywall and (re)paint

So....
Get your landscaping started ASAP, that's going to take a while for all the design and approval
Make your window treatment appointment for design choices early.  They'll need an appointment for technical measurements.  Maybe lead time for manufacturing.  Then appt for install.
Get the flooring complete
Barn door / closet organizer / water treatment / recessed lighting
Paint

Hope that helps :)  Congrats on your new home, hope you enjoy it
 
No prob, anytime :)

I'm getting carried away here...  One more thought regarding the RO dispensing.  Two options

1) drill a hole in the counter top (requires a specialist... I think) and have plumber install the faucet/tap that comes with the RO unit.  Nothing wrong with this option IMO, but I chose against it for aesthetic reasons. This is actually the simpler solution IMO b/c doesn't require refrigerator to be operational to dispense water, just requires more time/planning/money up front & appropriate counter space. But then again, how often are refrigerators non-operational?

2) dispense from refrigerator IF the builder installed a line from under the sink to the refrigerator outlet (they probably did).  The builder will know the answer to this.  The plumber should also be able to figure out the answer, but again, plumbers (and sorry again to all the good plumbers out there)...

You may be surprised with how low the RO outlet water pressure is, especially after a few months of use. Three things here to help you get maximum RO outlet pressure: 

1) Inflate the tank bladder to the recommended pressure.  Apparently over-inflating doesn't increase pressure to the outlet, it just makes the bladder inside the tank take up more space.

2) If you choose to dispense via refrigerator and the refrigerator has a water filter, replace it with a "bypass" filter (it might come with one or you may need to order from the manufacturer).  The water is already as pure as it's going to get after it goes through the RO unit.  The refrigerator's filter is just going to obstruct the water flow.

3) Change your RO filters per manufacturer recommendations.  Some filters need to be changed every 6 months, some annually, some every other year.  Lots of videos on youtube of how to change the filters yourself.  It's helpful to have a 2nd person available to assist.  If no one in your household is comfortable doing this, no worries at all.  Instead, make friends with a local handy-person or the plumber if he's one of the good ones.  It's a 10 minute job for them.  All you have to do is order the right filters (check the instructions + google).  Some plumbers are cool with side work and will do the job for $20-$40 labor, some aren't since their employer would rather charge you $150 for the service and the plumber could get fired side work.

Sorry for the unsolicited advice here, feel free to try your own path :)
 
^
Don't have RO system, but wouldn't it be easier to opt for the soap dispenser (if it's an option on the countertop but don't actually use it, use it for RO instead)?
 
AW said:
^
Don't have RO system, but wouldn't it be easier to opt for the soap dispenser (if it's an option on the countertop but don't actually use it, use it for RO instead)?

That's a good idea!  Hadn't thought of that :) 
 
The builder (Irvine Pacific) did our recessed lights throughout the house. It was a quick move-in home so these were already done at the discretion of the builder. Upon closer examination of the cans, it seems that the builder installed different bulbs. The kitchen appears to be using compact fluorescents and the remainder of the house uses a different bulb. See the attached photos.

Any idea why they used a different bulb? Is one better than the other? Should we ask the builder to match them up? I really know nothing about recessed lighting, so apologies if this is a dumb question.
 

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That's not uncommon.  We have the same setup from IP as well.  Bright CFL is well suited to the kitchen use, while the warmer and dimmable halogen bulbs are suited to the living spaces.
 
Potsticker, change out those crap 4 pin bulbs for Costco FEIT LED recessed lighting.  To swap those 4 pin lights in the wet areas you have to bypass the ballast so hire an electrician unless you know what you're doing.

I have a guy that will do it for $20 per bulb if he does 8 or more (you supply the lights - $14.99 for 2 pack at Costco).  This guy is good and quick licensed electrician and you won't find anyone to do it for less than that I'm sure.  PM me if you want the info.

When we changed these out in our kitchen it was a night and day difference, like the kitchen came alive at night.  Well worth the $.
 
aquabliss said:
Potsticker, change out those crap 4 pin bulbs for Costco FEIT LED recessed lighting.  To swap those 4 pin lights in the wet areas you have to bypass the ballast so hire an electrician unless you know what you're doing.

I have a guy that will do it for $20 per bulb if he does 8 or more (you supply the lights - $14.99 for 2 pack at Costco).  This guy is good and quick licensed electrician and you won't find anyone to do it for less than that I'm sure.  PM me if you want the info.

When we changed these out in our kitchen it was a night and day difference, like the kitchen came alive at night.  Well worth the $.

This x1000000000000000.  Those 4 pin bulbs are crap, and shine WAY too cool (4K-ish).  A warmer 2700K LED will save you on elec bills and make it easier on your eyes.  I did this for my kitchen, bathrooms, and all of my exterior cans.
 
@someguy:

I have Costco LEDs on dimmers that were for normal lights and they work fine.

Not sure why being on the same circuit would matter considering they are supposed to take less power than normal lights.
 
Per building code for energy efficient home, builder are require to put energy efficient recess light (either CFL or LED) in kitchen, bathroom etc.  And these recess light units can not be the traditional screw on type which the home owner can easily swap out the CFL light bulb to the incandescent bulb, hence the 4 pin CFL in some and integrated LED in others.

I've swap out those 4 pin CFL and replace with LED too.  I don't like the light color of those CFL and it take like a second to turn on, sort of annoying. 
 
I'm going to be a real tool here and ask if one of you guys could post a picture? As I said previously, I know nothing about lights. Obviously, if it's something everyone is recommendation I would strongly consider. But, I can't just pop a bulb in - so if someone could share a pic, that'd be great.
 
gasman said:
2 - Do standard recessed lights with builder, then convert them to LED from Costco (Feit).

3 - Call Socal Water Systems. Way better pricing and way better system. They install Fleck softeners and Nimbus Sierra RO.

Have heard their are buzzing issues when you use the Feit LED's when you use them on a dimmer - even when you switch out to LED compatible ones.

Funny that tomorrow So Cal Water is installing a softener and RO in my house tomorrow.
 
DrTravel said:
gasman said:
2 - Do standard recessed lights with builder, then convert them to LED from Costco (Feit).

3 - Call Socal Water Systems. Way better pricing and way better system. They install Fleck softeners and Nimbus Sierra RO.

Have heard their are buzzing issues when you use the Feit LED's when you use them on a dimmer - even when you switch out to LED compatible ones.

Funny that tomorrow So Cal Water is installing a softener and RO in my house tomorrow.

How much did So Cal water charge you for both installed?  Found their pricing to be pretty high.  Wondering if it's better to just buy the systems from US Water or something and hire a plumber. 
 
best_potsticker_in_town said:
I'm going to be a real tool here and ask if one of you guys could post a picture? As I said previously, I know nothing about lights. Obviously, if it's something everyone is recommendation I would strongly consider. But, I can't just pop a bulb in - so if someone could share a pic, that'd be great.

To get rid of those 4 pin CFL here's couple options:

1.  Straight replacement.  Lunera make these Helen 4 pin LED lamp that can work with existing ballast so there's no need to do any bypass. Just straight forward direct swap.  No first hand experience with these so can't comment on the result but if these work its a pretty convenience way to go.
https://www.energyavenue.com/Lunera/HN-H-G24Q-26W-2700-G3?gclid=CNDYkZnCo88CFQERaQodu40Haw

2. Swap out the entire 4 pin recess light housing and replace with a traditional screw on recess light housing.  This way you can use just about any type of spotlight bulbs (LED, CFL etc) you want.  Example of recess light hosing:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-6-i...C-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100068963-_-N

3.  Use a LED retrofit kit.  These kit will fit into the existing recess can so there is no need to swap out the housing but you do need rewiring it to bypass the ballast.  I believe this is the most common route people use. 
http://www.costco.com/Feit-5”-6”-LE...-50,000-Hours-|-4-pack.product.100116152.html

Here's some other thread related to this.
http://www.talkirvine.com/index.php/topic,11522.msg252202.html#msg252202
http://www.talkirvine.com/index.php/topic,12952.msg257440.html#msg257440
 
jmoney74 said:
How much did So Cal water charge you for both installed?  Found their pricing to be pretty high.  Wondering if it's better to just buy the systems from US Water or something and hire a plumber.

They are on the higher end but it's been worth every penny.
 
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