Adding dedicated circuit in garage?

[daedalus]

I'm not sure how things are in OC, but I've been told that in LAC, the building safety department would require the entire system to be brought up to current code if I were to get a permit for anything.  Of course, that might just be a scare/sales tactic by the contractor I spoke to. 
The big changes in recent years are the requirement for AFCI protection and the need for a dedicated neutral in all light switch boxes, both quite expensive.  Depending on when OC adopted the code, you may or may not have AFCIs already, but it's very unlikely you have dedicated neutrals everywhere.  If you plan to get a permit, check to make sure the inspector won't require anything onerous.  It upsets me to no end how intertwined the code committees are with the manufacturers of things needed to meet the code.  AFCI is a perfect example.
As far as space, hopefully there is room in the box behind the front panel, and they just need to punch out 2 more holes.  If not, the costs are going to go up a lot.  You'll need a double breaker for 240V.  For that short a distance you could put a 50A circuit in and probably only need 8gauge wire.  Also, it's possible you have an unused 240V breaker already, if the builder wired the house for an electric stove or dryer, but you're actually using gas.

 

[Roger]

I'm not sure how things are in OC, but I've been told that in LAC, the building safety department would require the entire system to be brought up to current code if I were to get a permit for anything.  Of course, that might just be a scare/sales tactic by the contractor I spoke to. 
The big changes in recent years are the requirement for AFCI protection and the need for a dedicated neutral in all light switch boxes, both quite expensive.  Depending on when OC adopted the code, you may or may not have AFCIs already, but it's very unlikely you have dedicated neutrals everywhere.  If you plan to get a permit, check to make sure the inspector won't require anything onerous.  It upsets me to no end how intertwined the code committees are with the manufacturers of things needed to meet the code.  AFCI is a perfect example.
As far as space, hopefully there is room in the box behind the front panel, and they just need to punch out 2 more holes.  If not, the costs are going to go up a lot.  You'll need a double breaker for 240V.  For that short a distance you could put a 50A circuit in and probably only need 8gauge wire.  Also, it's possible you have an unused 240V breaker already, if the builder wired the house for an electric stove or dryer, but you're actually using gas.

Thanks a lot!  This is very insightful.  The permit issue will come up when it's time to sell right?  I will need to double check my panel today to see if there is anything available for 240V.

 

[daedalus]

How would anyone know, and if done to the code standards of the rest of the house, why would anyone care?

 

[Roger]

How would anyone know, and if done to the code standards of the rest of the house, why would anyone care?

Agree.  Completely forget to check the panel yesterday when I got home.  Will do that before I call Johnny Electric.  daedalus  - do you think they'd be aware if there is any permit issue before proceeding with installation or it's entirely on me?

 

[daedalus]

Anyone who does work in the area should know what's likely to be expected, and they should be familiar with both the permitting dept and the inspectors.  Contractors will often give you the option of pulling the permit yourself, or paying them to do it.  I think licensed contractors are only supposed to work with a permit, but it's easy enough to find ones who won't.  I'm not sure who's liable for any future issues, but that's not something I would worry about for a job like this. 

 

[Roger]

Anyone who does work in the area should know what's likely to be expected, and they should be familiar with both the permitting dept and the inspectors.  Contractors will often give you the option of pulling the permit yourself, or paying them to do it.  I think licensed contractors are only supposed to work with a permit, but it's easy enough to find ones who won't.  I'm not sure who's liable for any future issues, but that's not something I would worry about for a job like this.

Thanks daedalus.  That's a relief.

 

[Roger]

Checked the breaker panel for availability to add the dedicated line - there are couple spaces to add but the labels for the existing ones are pretty bad and I can't tell which ones are 220V.  But now I do know the garage outlets share with the hvac unit.  I guess this rules out the possibility to reroute the existing 220V but to add an dedicated one just for the EV?

 

[irvinehomeowner]

Why would you reroute a 220v? The only things I can't think that use a 220v are an electric oven, the AC and back in the day, a dryer.

At least the blank spots means you can add one.

 

[daedalus]

A couple clues:  240V breaker switches are locked together.  You can't turn off one without turning off the other.  They are also higher amperage.  120V breakers are typically 15A or 20A.  240V breakers are usually 30A-50A.  The visual giveaway would be to find the 2 side-by-side switches that are turned off, opposite all the others.  That would indicate an unused 240V breaker.  If all the switches point the same way then it's likely any 240V breaker on there is already being used.

The gotcha that hasn't been addressed is whether the panel can handle the extra amperage of adding another breaker.  I think there's some demand/capacity formula the NEC uses.  Probably ok, but the contractor will have to assess it.

 

[Roger]

A couple clues:  240V breaker switches are locked together.  You can't turn off one without turning off the other.  They are also higher amperage.  120V breakers are typically 15A or 20A.  240V breakers are usually 30A-50A.  The visual giveaway would be to find the 2 side-by-side switches that are turned off, opposite all the others.  That would indicate an unused 240V breaker.  If all the switches point the same way then it's likely any 240V breaker on there is already being used.

The gotcha that hasn't been addressed is whether the panel can handle the extra amperage of adding another breaker.  I think there's some demand/capacity formula the NEC uses.  Probably ok, but the contractor will have to assess it.

Thanks a lot again daedalus!  The last point will determine the price break point I am comfortable with - the cost of upgrading the entire panel will be probably too high.  I am going to call them to have an estimate after the electrician takes a look at my current panel setup.