Builder Upgrades- what did you choose /how to get these done ?

aquabliss said:
Perspective said:
AW said:
Yeah, you can do the canned lighting and ceiling fan upstairs post close since it's cheaper and easier to install because of attic space to do the install.  Downstairs is doable too, but more difficult and most likely require some patch job.  But if you were going to paint post close, it's something to consider as well. 

I'd go outside with blinds, but some people don't like the hassle since it's going to take quite some time if you go the shutters route where they need to measure and order to install.
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We have no attic space upstairs. It's a complex web of trusses and cross-supporting wood beams. The roof isn't pitched much either. So, an electrician might have some fun climbing over and under trusses to get to tight areas.
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Does it make the upstairs unusually hot in the summer?
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We'll see. We moved-in this January, so haven't experienced much heat yet.
 
blueribbon said:
Thank you all. 

And how about the lights and ceiling fans and blinds....those are coming under upgrades /decoratives....if I get it post close do they come with installation from stores? ... And suppose I buy washer/dryers and refrigerator from outside, do these stores send in an installation guy ? or they just deliver it ?
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Ceiling fans and blinds should be done post close.
 
jmoney74 said:
blueribbon said:
The builder offers a million upgrades most of which we might not do.

But I want to specifically ask about how you got these for your house ? Builder / did it by yourself / don't have it. Whats a good way ?

1) Refrigerator , washer / dryer
2) home security
3) Cabinet color change...most offer only white.
4) Tile flooring - builder options are the basic 2-3 colors.
5) light colored countertop and island.
6) Closet organizer

thank you.
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Did you buy in PS Blue?

1) Refrigerator , washer / dryer- If you get their built in, might be a better price.  Washer/Dryer definitely get it through Lowes/Home Depot
2) home security - cheaper outside
3) Cabinet color change...most offer only white - yes through builder
4) Tile flooring - builder options are the basic 2-3 colors. - upgrade the tile through builder
5) light colored countertop and island. - upgrade through builder
6) Closet organizer - go outside to a place like cabinets plus.  Usually a fraction of the price.
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I didn't buy PS yet jmoney....I am trying to finalize between PS / Cypress Village and Beacon Park...
BP is throwing in upgrades but more MR....
So I amm just trying to figure out the monthly payments since what we do with builder you pay taxes forever on that...

I am not in for Eastwood...I don't think its worth the prices now...Helena base model is at 668 the last time I saw it....the bigger model is 700's already... I haven't got called yet..thats another story

So now that lowes/ HD send installation folks, is there some compatibility issue we should be concerned about.. all I care is stainless steel ....doesn't matter if my fridge name doesn't match the dishwasher....

also after close if we buy ceiling fans post close, how much is it to get it installed ?
 
blueribbon said:
jmoney74 said:
blueribbon said:
The builder offers a million upgrades most of which we might not do.

But I want to specifically ask about how you got these for your house ? Builder / did it by yourself / don't have it. Whats a good way ?

1) Refrigerator , washer / dryer
2) home security
3) Cabinet color change...most offer only white.
4) Tile flooring - builder options are the basic 2-3 colors.
5) light colored countertop and island.
6) Closet organizer

thank you.
Click to expand...

Did you buy in PS Blue?

1) Refrigerator , washer / dryer- If you get their built in, might be a better price.  Washer/Dryer definitely get it through Lowes/Home Depot
2) home security - cheaper outside
3) Cabinet color change...most offer only white - yes through builder
4) Tile flooring - builder options are the basic 2-3 colors. - upgrade the tile through builder
5) light colored countertop and island. - upgrade through builder
6) Closet organizer - go outside to a place like cabinets plus.  Usually a fraction of the price.
Click to expand...

I didn't buy PS yet jmoney....I am trying to finalize between PS / Cypress Village and Beacon Park...
BP is throwing in upgrades but more MR....
So I amm just trying to figure out the monthly payments since what we do with builder you pay taxes forever on that...

I am not in for Eastwood...I don't think its worth the prices now...Helena base model is at 668 the last time I saw it....the bigger model is 700's already... I haven't got called yet..thats another story

So now that lowes/ HD send installation folks, is there some compatibility issue we should be concerned about.. all I care is stainless steel ....doesn't matter if my fridge name doesn't match the dishwasher....

also after close if we buy ceiling fans post close, how much is it to get it installed ?
Click to expand...

Have builder pre wired jhooks. Any handyman can install for you. 50-100 bux.

No compatibility issues. Just ask for all the nozzles and pans needed.
 
If the ceiling fans are pre-wired, it will only be around 100-150 a fan for a local installer to do it in about 1-2 hours. It is very painless.

We got our appliances through best buy during a 4th of july promotion which knocked off a bunch of $ and then compounded it with a movers coupon which netted another 10% off, and then opened a new best buy credit card which gave 10% rewards which we used towards a new TV. overall, discount on top of discount on top of discount. So you can definitely do much better than the builder. Just depends if the time is worth the money to you.
 
Additional questions...

So Kitchen Island top and sink should be post builder, replacing the one provided by the builder?

What about Laundry room sink/faucet addition?  I think included is just a plain cabinet top without sink/faucet/cut out and the builder charges up to $2000... 
 
irvineorbust said:
Additional questions...

So Kitchen Island top and sink should be post builder, replacing the one provided by the builder?

What about Laundry room sink/faucet addition?  I think included is just a plain cabinet top without sink/faucet/cut out and the builder charges up to $2000...
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Yes, I would replace the one provided by the builder.  There are sinks that are much more durable and quiet than builder sinks.  Franke, Kohler, Julien (my personal favorite) all make great undermount product.

I would do the laundry room sink with the builder, because it will include all plumbing and drains.  That's where most of the $2000 charge is going.  If you want to change out the faucet and sink after close, that's an easy job, as long as you are fine with an overmount utility sink.
 
gasman said:
irvineorbust said:
Additional questions...

So Kitchen Island top and sink should be post builder, replacing the one provided by the builder?

What about Laundry room sink/faucet addition?  I think included is just a plain cabinet top without sink/faucet/cut out and the builder charges up to $2000...
Click to expand...

Yes, I would replace the one provided by the builder.  There are sinks that are much more durable and quiet than builder sinks.  Franke, Kohler, Julien (my personal favorite) all make great undermount product.

I would do the laundry room sink with the builder, because it will include all plumbing and drains.  That's where most of the $2000 charge is going.  If you want to change out the faucet and sink after close, that's an easy job, as long as you are fine with an overmount utility sink.
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The pre-plumbing was only $500 but the cabinet/sink/top are about $1600....
 
gasman said:
irvineorbust said:
Additional questions...

So Kitchen Island top and sink should be post builder, replacing the one provided by the builder?

What about Laundry room sink/faucet addition?  I think included is just a plain cabinet top without sink/faucet/cut out and the builder charges up to $2000...
Click to expand...

Yes, I would replace the one provided by the builder.  There are sinks that are much more durable and quiet than builder sinks.  Franke, Kohler, Julien (my personal favorite) all make great undermount product.

I would do the laundry room sink with the builder, because it will include all plumbing and drains.  That's where most of the $2000 charge is going.  If you want to change out the faucet and sink after close, that's an easy job, as long as you are fine with an overmount utility sink.
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sometimes it's just cheaper to do this through the builder.. since most of the homes come with Granite already.. upgrading to the next thing isn't that bad. 
 
What are the pros/cons of tile vs wood flooring in the great room?  I am considering doing carpet in the living room and tile or wood flooring in the kitchen and dining portion of the great room.  Any thoughts?
 
IrvineNinja said:
What are the pros/cons of tile vs wood flooring in the great room?  I am considering doing carpet in the living room and tile or wood flooring in the kitchen and dining portion of the great room.  Any thoughts?
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A lot of people say wood throughout. But I did tile in the kitchen. For spills, my mini chef helps my wife (but the ingredients are all over the place)

Also, I have been to open houses and I see wood buckles. Doesn't look good.
 
eyephone said:
IrvineNinja said:
What are the pros/cons of tile vs wood flooring in the great room?  I am considering doing carpet in the living room and tile or wood flooring in the kitchen and dining portion of the great room.  Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

A lot of people say wood throughout. But I did tile in the kitchen. For spills, my mini chef helps my wife (but the ingredients are all over the place)

Also, I have been to open houses and I see wood buckles. Doesn't look good.
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Depends on your layout. Some of the really open layouts look odd when you break up the flooring material between kitchen and great room. There's no good dividing line that doesn't look super choppy. 

You can always get an indoor/outdoor rug to cover the wood in areas of the kitchen that are most susceptible to drips from the sink/stove and dishwasher. Again, feasibility of this is dependent on your kitchen layout.

If you really don't want wood in the kitchen due to fear of water damage, I would say its better to do all tile in kitchen and great room (presuming an open layout) rather than break it up into tile/wood or tile/carpet. 

If you absolutely must split the kitchen and great room flooring, try to get something where the color values are similar so at least the transition isn't so jarring.
 
nyc to oc said:
eyephone said:
IrvineNinja said:
What are the pros/cons of tile vs wood flooring in the great room?  I am considering doing carpet in the living room and tile or wood flooring in the kitchen and dining portion of the great room.  Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

A lot of people say wood throughout. But I did tile in the kitchen. For spills, my mini chef helps my wife (but the ingredients are all over the place)

Also, I have been to open houses and I see wood buckles. Doesn't look good.
Click to expand...

Depends on your layout. Some of the really open layouts look odd when you break up the flooring material between kitchen and great room. There's no good dividing line that doesn't look super choppy. 

You can always get an indoor/outdoor rug to cover the wood in areas of the kitchen that are most susceptible to drips from the sink/stove and dishwasher. Again, feasibility of this is dependent on your kitchen layout.

If you really don't want wood in the kitchen due to fear of water damage, I would say its better to do all tile in kitchen and great room (presuming an open layout) rather than break it up into tile/wood or tile/carpet. 

If you absolutely must split the kitchen and great room flooring, try to get something where the color values are similar so at least the transition isn't so jarring.
Click to expand...
 
akkord said:
jmoney74 said:
Wood looking tile.  Downside is that it's colder and the grout lines.
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Tile is also harder than wood and the grout can get dirty over time.
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yup.. I like the cost though.  LOL
 
jmoney74 said:
akkord said:
jmoney74 said:
Wood looking tile.  Downside is that it's colder and the grout lines.
Click to expand...

Tile is also harder than wood and the grout can get dirty over time.
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yup.. I like the cost though.  LOL
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I feel that the tile that looks like wood which is nice, actually costs almost the same as wood (if not more), which than makes me just say, go with wood.  That said, that product has gotten a lot better than when I put my engineered wood floors in a few years ago. 
 
What do you feel about the tiling work - I don't like the tile and std carpet- Is it better to upgrade with builder ? Does it reduce the warranty on plumbing etc ? Bcos ideally you would lift the toilet and the dishwasher if you want to tile. So if its done post close, does warranty get eliminated ?

Also Recessed lighting should be done through builder right ? Bcos its structural ?

Please give your thoughts?
 
Flooring is best done post close...you'll save a ton of cash.  There are many reputable vendors in the area.  There should be no voiding of warranty to toilets, plumbing etc.

Personally I would do the recessed lights with the builder.  Every.  Single.  Room.
 
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