Changing Shower Valve on Old Shower

W

woodburyowner

Well-known member
Shower valve is a few decades old.  I want to change it out so I can attach new hardware fixtures for the shower.  The quotes I've been getting seem pretty high to me.  $480-$600 for each valve (not including the valve).  Has anyone else done this?  What did you pay?
 
I have no idea how much this costs.  If you're handy I'm sure there are ton of youtube videos out there. I got a handyman that had done decent work (not plumbing, but I assume he can), if you want his # just PM me.
 
We changed a valve in the shower handle about two months ago. Took like 15 minutes and cost like 240
 
akkord said:
I have no idea how much this costs.  If you're handy I'm sure there are ton of youtube videos out there. I got a handyman that had done decent work (not plumbing, but I assume he can), if you want his # just PM me.
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It's a pretty involved job.  I'm not referring to the front accessible valve.  It's the valve that connects the hot and cold water line which is behind the wall.  I estimate probably 1.5-2 hours for a plumber to do it.  I'm just shocked at the 2 quotes I got so far.  I'll have to get a few more tomorrow, but wanted to check if anyone else has had similar work done.
 
Went through this on my last house, on a shower installed in the '80s.  On some of them you can just replace the cartridge, which has the seals.  I believe some brands are cross-compaible which opens up options for new fixtures.  Accessing what's behind the wall is not hard.  Usually some small covers, set screws and maybe some caulk need to be removed to get the handles and escutcheon plate off.  Then you can hopefully ID what's there.  With that info you can see what your options and needs are. 

Agree, if you actually do need to sweat a whole new valve in place that can get involved.  Is there access from the other side of the wall?  Drywall is easier to patch than tile. 
 
This is my experience also, for a shower from 2002 construction (DIY replaceable innards).  Only for earlier construction (1970s?) should a real plumber be needed.

daedalus said:
Went through this on my last house, on a shower installed in the '80s.  On some of them you can just replace the cartridge, which has the seals.  I believe some brands are cross-compaible which opens up options for new fixtures.  Accessing what's behind the wall is not hard.  Usually some small covers, set screws and maybe some caulk need to be removed to get the handles and escutcheon plate off.  Then you can hopefully ID what's there.  With that info you can see what your options and needs are. 

Agree, if you actually do need to sweat a whole new valve in place that can get involved.  Is there access from the other side of the wall?  Drywall is easier to patch than tile. 
Click to expand...
 
daedalus said:
Went through this on my last house, on a shower installed in the '80s.  On some of them you can just replace the cartridge, which has the seals.  I believe some brands are cross-compaible which opens up options for new fixtures.  Accessing what's behind the wall is not hard.  Usually some small covers, set screws and maybe some caulk need to be removed to get the handles and escutcheon plate off.  Then you can hopefully ID what's there.  With that info you can see what your options and needs are. 

Agree, if you actually do need to sweat a whole new valve in place that can get involved.  Is there access from the other side of the wall?  Drywall is easier to patch than tile. 
Click to expand...

Yes, this house was built in the 70s.  The good news is that there is drywall access behind the shower.  Let's hope I get a better quote today.
 
What are quotes running? $700? $1500?

Quotes on unknowns are always high.

What's standard hourly rate on a plumber now? $275, $350?  Higher?  Four hour minimum?

And of course, there is the we want this work bid or the we don't really want this work.  IMHO, there's a lot of vendors making a good living changing out compression shutoff values.

 
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